气候变化领域集成服务门户(CCPortal): A New Probabilistic Wave Breaking Model for Dominant Wind-Sea Waves Based on the Gaussian Field Theory

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DOI	10.1029/2020JC016943
	A New Probabilistic Wave Breaking Model for Dominant Wind-Sea Waves Based on the Gaussian Field Theory
	Stringari C.E.; Prevosto M.; Filipot J.-F.; Leckler F.; Guimarães P.V.
发表日期	2021
ISSN	21699275
卷号	126 期号:4
英文摘要	This study presents a novel method for obtaining the probability of wave breaking (Pb) of deep water, dominant wind-sea waves (i.e., waves made of the energy within ±30% of the peak wave frequency) derived from Gaussian wave field theory. For a given input wave spectrum, we demonstrate how it is possible to derive a joint probability density function between wave phase speed (c) and horizontal orbital velocity at the wave crest (u) from which a model for Pb can be obtained. A nonlinear kinematic wave breaking criterion consistent with the Gaussian framework is further proposed. Our model would allow, therefore, the application of the classical wave breaking criterion (i.e., wave breaking occurs if u/c > 1) in spectral wave models which, to the authors' knowledge, has not been done to date. Our results show that the proposed theoretical model has errors in the same order of magnitude as six other historical models when assessed using three field data sets. With optimization of the proposed model's single free parameter, it can become the best performing model for specific data sets. Although our results are promising, additional, more complete wave breaking data sets collected in the field are needed to comprehensively assess the present model, especially in regards to the dependence on phenomena such as direct wind forcing, long wave modulation, and wave directionality. © 2021. American Geophysical Union. All Rights Reserved.
英文关键词	Gaussian field theory; wave breaking; wave modeling
语种	英语
来源期刊	Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans
文献类型	期刊论文
条目标识符	http://gcip.llas.ac.cn/handle/2XKMVOVA/186366
作者单位	France Energies Marines, Plouzané, France; Institut Français de Recherche pour l'Exploitation de la Mer, Plouzané, France; PPGOceano, Federal University of Santa Catarina, Florianópolis, Brazil
推荐引用方式 GB/T 7714	Stringari C.E.,Prevosto M.,Filipot J.-F.,et al. A New Probabilistic Wave Breaking Model for Dominant Wind-Sea Waves Based on the Gaussian Field Theory[J],2021,126(4).
APA	Stringari C.E.,Prevosto M.,Filipot J.-F.,Leckler F.,&Guimarães P.V..(2021).A New Probabilistic Wave Breaking Model for Dominant Wind-Sea Waves Based on the Gaussian Field Theory.Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans,126(4).
MLA	Stringari C.E.,et al."A New Probabilistic Wave Breaking Model for Dominant Wind-Sea Waves Based on the Gaussian Field Theory".Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 126.4(2021).